Banyuls sur mer

The R11 Regional train heads northeast from Barcelona, past Girona, past Figueres to Portbou just on the Spanish side of the French border. After a short stop, the train heads through a tunnel, and this Spanish train ends its run in the French border town of Cerebere. There a group of uniformed French officials standing on the station platform met the arriving passengers and thoroughly checked passports. Inside the station, I bought a round-trip ticket on the French SNCF train heading north. I wasn’t going far, just to the next station: Banyuls sur Mer (Banyuls on the sea).

It is a small town of about five thousand residents. It is quiet and French. I did not hear any other language spoken as I wandered around town. There is a tourist office, and one of those “tourist trains”. But, I guess they are all French tourists! 🙂

The unmistakable indication of a “cat house”! 🙂
I wonder if this fellow was one of the men I later saw playing boules!

A fish market and bakery

This town is definitely in “wine country”. At the time the prospect seemed a bit heavy, but in retrospect, I should have bought a couple of bottles to take back!

First-line restaurants.

Like “Fanta Orange” in Spain, “Orangina” is a soft drink that includes real orange juice (rather that those horrible flavoring chemicals in American orange soda!) It tastes different than Spanish Fanta Orange, but both are very good! And the view was lovely!

“Pierre” is of course, my name in French. But this does not mean “Danger, falling Peters”. It actually is warning about falling rocks!

As the train was nearing this town, I had noticed from the window that there was a cemetery that reminded me of the one we had toured in New Orleans. So later in the afternoon I set out to find it. Using the most basic pieces of French I know, I saw a woman on a chair in front of a small shop. I told her that I don’t speak French and asked her if she speaks English or Spanish. Uh, no, she didn’t. So I asked where the cemetery is. She replied ” which one? There are three”. With a few words and some gestures I conveyed that I had seen one from the train. Right away she knew which one I sought. She pointed down the street, said a few sentences that included the words for right and left, and I was on my way!

Near the train station there was some agricultural land.

The French train was actually quite nice compared with the Spanish regional one I had been on heading from Barcelona. Based on some strange arrangement between the French and Spanish railway systems, the Spanish train heading north can cross the border and drop the passengers off inside France. Heading south, it is the reverse. The French train crosses the border and drops everyone in Portbou.

But before leaving France there was another passport check.

From Portbou, back to Barcelona on Renfe!

Banyuls sur Mer has definitely been added to my “go back and visit again” list!

Stations of the snapshot

The hill upon which lies the “Calvario” church has a great view over the city, as well as a great perspective of the castle. Morning is best when the sun is at your back and Xàtiva is basking in the glow of its rays.

Ermita de Calvario Alto

“Calvario”(Calvary) chapels are fairly common in Spain, typified by a zig-zag upward path with stations of the cross at each bend.

By Xàtiva’s standards, this is a relatively “new” shrine, originally built in the 18th century and restored in the late 20th century. But the youth of the structure in no way detracts from the wonderful views as you climb up.

View over rooftops toward La Seu

Climbing the path up to the shrine one is treated to gradually changing vistas of the city and upward toward the castles.

Small neighborhood outside the medieval wall
Repairs underway to the upper castle

In the photo above, you can see scaffolding in place as part of the upper castle undergoes repair work. The section of castle on the right include the current entrance to the castle. Click on the photo if you want to zoom in!

Ermita de Calvario Alto
Back side of the shrine
View toward El Puig

The hill in the background of the above photo is “El Puig”. On top are the ruins of the Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Puig, which is under reconstruction to prevent its total collapse.

Looking past one of the “stations of the cross” toward La Seu and the “old quarter” of Xàtiva

Time to head back down and walk home.

View (R to L) of Calvario, el Puig, and Colegio la Immaculada

At the left side in this photo we new see the “Colegio la Immaculada”, a primary school attended by a friend’s son and where my “cousin” Fanny teaches.

Medieval wall and Calvario

Heading back toward my house I climb upward toward a break in the old city wall.

View of the “casco antiguo” and La Seu, with the newer sections of Xàtiva in the background

Heading home I get another view of la Seu and can also see the little street “Collar de la Paloma” and my house.

My house is indicated by the blue arrow

Above you can see an enlarged view of Rinconada Collar de la Paloma, and my home sweet home.

Ermita of Sant Josep

I pass one last monument- Sant Josep, before descending to my house.

Rancho de salva

My friends Natalia, Salva, Voro, and Nico have a ranch.
OK, I say “friends”, but honestly Natalia and Salva feel like much more than just friends. They feel like family, like close cousins.
OK, it is not exactly a ranch.
For a number of years they have had a small bit of land up on a hill outside Canals. It was dry, and a bit barren, but it did have a view to the distance of Montesa. This year, Salva proudly announced to me that they had bought a bit of land at the edge of Annauir, their hometown.
“Want to go take a look?”
“Of course!” I answered.

The plot of land was enclosed within a fence and included a couple of sheds/outbuildings. He pointed out what would soon be his chicken coop, and a variety of fruit trees. Variety? There was at least one of just about every fruit tree you can imagine. They had not had the property very long, and he was working to fix things up a bit before the heat of summer arrived. He was placing irrigation tubing within a fabric-protected greenhouse where he would plant a variety of vegetables.

Outside, by the border fence there were roses and even some grape vines, with tiny budding grapes.

About a month later, before I headed home to Colorado, Salva took me back again. The coop had chickens clucking along who decided that perhaps my shoes were food-like substances. Vegetables were slowly growing in the garden area, and crazy snails were working their way up any vertical surface or stick.

I think it is great that their two small children would have this bit of terreno as part of their world as they grow up.

As Salva drove me back to Xàtiva I said to him, “You have a really good life here.”
He said “Yes, we are happy. A person can always want more. But if we are not satisfied with what we have, a person will never be happy.”

Visiting Friends in Ontinyent

The weather is getting much nicer, and I decided it was high time I visited my friends Rafa and Marta who live in Ontinyent.

(click on any photo to go to an enlarged view. In that view, click again to “zoom in”.)

Rafa picked me up in Xàtiva, and they showed me their beautiful flat before we headed out to see the sights.

Very close to town is an oasis called Pou Clar (Clear Spring)

Pou Clar
The ducks here are a different breed than the mallards common in Denver.

It is a tranquil haven right off a highway, but down below you can’t even hear the cars.

The time is always right for a “selfie”


This park is quite extensive with a series of trails that follow the water, but one trail also climbs up the hill on the other side where there are picnic benches protected by signs that warn that picnicking is strictly forbidden. 😂😂

This area is near a spot I have often admired from the train that runs to Alcoy. As the train slips out into the open air between tunnels, there is a quick glimpse of a complex of buildings that includes what looks like a castle gate leading into the hillside. I have always been curious about it, but nobody seemed to know much about it.

Mystery spot

Well, today, a couple of kilometers from Pou Clar, we stopped by the entrance to that site. “Al Barranc el Castell i la Noria” (the castle and wheelhouse in the ravine)

The front door of: Al Barranc el Castell i la Noria

After getting that all straightened out, we headed to our next destination!

Bocarient

We continued up the road to the beautiful little town of Bocarient. Rhonda and I had been there a decade or more ago. From the highway, the view of the  church and the town’s jumble of old houses is stunning!

Bull ring in Bocarient

When we visited, we had heard of a hilltop bull-ring  carved out of the native stone, but had been unable to find it. Rafa navigated his car up and down a series of extremely narrow one-way streets and took us to the edge of the bull ring. I am not a fan of bull fights, but this was a very interesting sight!

Time to eat! We headed back to Ontinyent, where our treasured guide Marta led us to an elegant restaurant. The morning travels had sparked our appetites. The Salmorejo I had as my “first dish” was definitely not on my diet plan! But it was delicious!

Salmorejo
Paella

My “second course” was “Grandma’s paella”. This wasn’t going to help my diet either! (and don’t even ask about how the wine you see in the photo fits in!) To wrap things up we each had yummy flan. OK, this probably set my weight reduction plan back a whole week, but it was so delicious!


Next, Rafa and Marta took me to the Hermita de San Esteve, which is high atop a mountain with a stunning view over the entire area. On the drive up, Rafa recounted a recent strenuous bicycle ride up to the top.

Hermita de San Esteve

I felt as if I had worked off some of my meal’s calories just by listening to the account!

The view from San Esteve (click to enlarge!)

Compass rose

There are metal plates with all the sights you can see from this panoramic view. Of great interest me was the “compass rose” that identified which directions the view included. At the top it says south. But I was fascinated by the labels for east and west: Llevant (rise) for east, and Ponent (set) for west!

In the shade

After admiring the view for a bit, we took shelter from the sun and sat for a bit to recover from the meal.


OK, time to stop lollygagging! Back to Oninyent to see the sights of the town! We headed toward the old quarter and walked past the Santa Maria church which boasts the tallest bell tower in the region.

Bell tower of Santa Maria

The view across the old part of town was quite pleasant!

Rooftops of the old part of town
Clock of mystery

One roof sported a strange, intricate clock. It was a mystery. We later walked in front of the building that the clock adorned, but it was nothing special at all. Go figure. Somewhere there is a story…

On a wall, there was a painted image of a cat with wings: “The cat on the roof meowing for love”






Last but not least, two bridges over the Clariano River: One low, one high.

Low bridge over the Clariano
High bridge

Back to Xàtiva now!

Valencia’s “Mercado Central”

Today I was on a special shopping mission in Valencia. During my search for a particular item, I made a brief detour through Valencia’s massive, covered Central Market.
We had been to it several times about 15 years ago, but then massive renovations began. I am not sure exactly when the work finished, but this was the first time I had been inside the building since its rebirth.
Oh my goodness!
Amazing: Such a beautiful building! And what a wide assortment of fruits, seafood, meats, and any other type of food you can imagine. There is a sign that says something to the effect of “If you can’t find something here, it is quite possible it is not available anywhere.” They could be right!

Time to walk

My “SlackerBit” (the anti-FitBit) started nagging me that being a slacker is one thing, but that I had become almost immobile. It gave me a kick in the posterior and told me I had better walk, or else start looking for pants with a yet-larger waist size. So… I ambled up to the handy nearby castle and back. 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My SlackerBit said “OK, fine. Now what are you going to do tomorrow?”

🙂

 

 

Tossa De Mar – April 2019

Mid-April during a short stay in Barcelona, I took a day trip by bus to Tossa De Mar. This is an old, pleasant town on the ‘Costa Brava” northeast of Barcelona.

My timing was good. The day was warm but it was too early in the season to be overly crowded with (other!) tourists.

This spot was inhabited as far back as the neolithic period. But the existing “old quarter” of the town dates to the 12th century. It was built on a hill, surrounded by a protective wall.

Now I will quit gabbing, and let the photos speak for themselves. (Remember that if you click on a photo, you will see an enlarged version.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This could be a nice spot for a return visit and a hotel overlooking the beach and sea!

 

 

 

April 2019 – Xàtiva and working on my videos

I’m in Xàtiva again!

That means great food!

It also means “nose to the grindstone” as I work on a variety of projects.

Before leaving Denver, I uploaded an updated version of my “Learning Chinese Provinces: Part One”. Lots of nice improvements included the requested “hint” box that now includes full pinyin with tone marks. If the word “pinyin” leaves you scratching your head, don’t worry. People studying Chinese will understand, and the rest of us will not even notice that item!

Unfortunately, for the moment the new video seems to be somewhat “invisible” because it shares the same name as the older version that I released about a year ago. That version is quickly approaching 6,000 views. OK, I know that number is not very impressive in the overall context of Youtube, especially when measured against “hate videos” which garner hundreds of thousands of views…
Oh well… an educational video is no match…

(Update February 2024: Well, several updates later, there is a new version of this “Part One” which now has over 40 thousand views. (Still a tiny fraction of even the stupidest posts available on YouTube, and a tiny fraction of the number of views for offensive racist/hate-speech videos! oh well!)
Parts Two and Three have completed the provinces series. There are now Spanish and French versions of that series and an Italian version of just the first part. I have expanded the videos to include a series on the provincial capitals as well as a couple of miscellaneous ones related to China! More coming in the future! If you want to see, skip the dreaded YouTube copies, and instead take a look at my “Pere-X” site.
(Click HERE for the Pere-X site.)

On that site you can choose to navigate in English, Spanish, French, Italian, or Chinese!

My travels: Photos and stories