Category Archives: Travel

Huangshan

Huangshan (Yellow Mountain) is a world famous series of peaks in southern Anhui province.

Friday, I traveled to the mountain and ascended via a cable car. I spent most of the day exploring various rugged trails, and absorbing the beauty of the rock formations.

My good friend Marlene had visited Huangshan in June. Unfortunately she had the bad fortune to suffer almost constant rain while she was there. (But, she is an excellent photographer and nevertheless got some great photos!)

My experience was different, and Friday was virtually cloudless.

I stayed in a hotel on the mountain Friday night. Along with a hundred others I woke early Saturday morning and stumbled in the dark up a steep series of steps toward the top of Lion Peak. We all waited in the cold for sunrise.

As the sky lightened, a sea of clouds washed up the mountain. It was spectacular!

After what seemed like an hour of beauty, the excitement subsided as the rising clouds settled in over the mountain.
I headed back to the hotel for a quick breakfast, and then checked out.

The thick mist of the enveloping cloud made visibility poor. I had a decision to make: head to the nearest cable car and go down the mountain? Or try to make sense of the mostly useless maps of the mountain trails, and take a much longer route to try to glimpse the famous “Greeting Pine” that provides a visual welcome to visitors.

I selected the latter option- undoubtedly the wrong choice given my advanced age and ruined ankles (in my defense- I did survive… Barely!)

The correct path was often uncertain, and the poor visibility did not help. It was brutal! Extended climbs that had me panting and my heart pounding, descents that had my knees screaming in pain- then, repeat, and repeat, and repeat.

After a couple of hours, a strong, bitter cold wind began to blow. At times it challenged my balance. Other times it tried to send my hat flying. I cinched the chin cord of the hat tighter!

The wind began to create occasional breaks in the clouds, exposing rugged peaks. Eventually the enveloping cloud was gone! But the dramatic and challenging up and down of the mountain path remained.

Maps were bad, and trail signs gave dubious and sometimes contradictory guidance.

Yet somehow I finally made it to the Greeting Pine. There I jockeyed with hundreds of other who also wanted photos.

The tree’s branches seem to extend an arm in a welcoming gesture.

That done, I fought my way along trails packed with new arrivals to reach the cable car station and head down!

Hongcun: (Crouching tigers anyone?)

I will be staying overnight in Hongcun before heading up Huangshan (Yellow Mountain) tomorrow!

Besides being a World Heritage site, some very recognizable spots in Honcun were shown in the movie “Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon.”

In fact, the exterior of my hotel here can be seen about 2/3 the way into the movie.

The town is really cute, although many of it’s alleys are now filled with gift shops, and Hocun is filled (at least during the day) with hordes of tourists (I guess I am one of them!)

Yet it’s beauty is such that when I walked around South Lake, I encountered easily 100 young art students with easels painting scenes of the lake, the arched bridge, and/or aquatic plants with huge leaves that grow near one shore.

View of “Crescent moon Pond” (as seen from a terrace near my room)

An online “Tourist Map” showed a mere handful of streets/alleys.

Well, I have only been here a few hours and have gotten lost a bunch of times!

A more complete map was posted in town.

Prosperity and Pollution

Most Americans know nothing of China. Living in a fog of misconceptions they imagine an Asian “Gulag” peopled by mindless robots, living in poverty. They see images of North Korea, and visualize China as it’s twin.

I was quite surprised by the reality of China, from my first visit in 2015. Surprised by its people, and surprised by its prosperity. There are some aspects of China that are far more modern than America.

Although in some ways China is at a stage of industrialization characterized by “growth at any cost”, there is a clear sense of concern about pollution.

This is not the place to go into great detail about life in China. But since it is night time here I want to mention the garish light displays that awaken after the sun goes down. Modern high-rise building become colorful canvases for messaging or just artistic light shows. Businesses lure customers with bright lights.

All of this comes at a cost. Light-pollution is itself a disruption to the tranquility of the night. And all those lights require electricity. Generating electricity almost always involved pollution of one sort or another.

A building here in Jinan acts as a sort of gigantic billboard.
Here, a business projects its logo on a nearby wall. Sometimes twirling logos shine down on the sidewalk in front of a bar or store.

Some subway systems here project bright messaging or advertisements on the walls of the underground tunnels so they can be seen by passengers.

Jinan – The spring city

Jinan is the “Spring City”- Here “spring” is not the name of a season… but rather rather the meaning of “spring” referring to water coming up from the ground. (This recognizes Jinan as a town with an abundance of water that springs up from beneath the ground.)

My hotel is a short walk from a number of popular springs, which tend to be wrapped in extended gardens and park areas.

I visited the “Five Dragon Pond” site, and “Baotu Spring”.

Enclosing the old part of Jinan is a somewhat rectangular, spring-fed canal. One tourist brochure uses the word “moat” to describe it.

Next, I visited a neighborhood that includes a large Confucian temple complex and a series of old residential alleys that have been mostly converted to shops. To get there, I rode in a tiny three wheeled contraption (In America we call these “tuk-tuks”, using their Thai name). This bone-jarring ride involved careening from street to street in a vehicle that seemed to ignore all traffic flow rules.

(I placed my knapsack in the photo to illustrated the size of the clay vessel.)

Meandering in Beijing

It had been suggested that China’s National Library in Beijing would be a good place to find information on a topic I was researching
This required that I apply for a “Reader’s Card”. Well, I didn’t find what I was after, but it was an experience!
Then I ambled around Beijing’s Bell Tower and Drum Tower neighborhood. (The bell was enormous!)
I worked my way through a number of “hutongs” (residential alleys), and reached a small lake area overrun with holiday visitors.
And from there went to Beihai lake, which was yet busier, filled with families enjoying the last day of the three day holiday

Tianjin

Beijing South railway station
First class seats on China’s fabulous high-speed trains
Tianjin is a vibrant modern city with a long history.
The city gets it current name from a historical event in a military campaign of Zhu Di
朱棣 – the man who became the third emperor of the Ming dynasty – Yongle 永樂.
As emperor, it was he who built the Forbidden City
I visited the Tianjin museum looking for additional information
Zhu Di and his troops cross the Hai He (river) on his way South to overthrow his nephew, the second Ming emperor. (Note that in Chinese they use the word for river when speaking of canals)
The Stele (engraved stone monument) erected to commemorate the “river crossing”

Sneak Preview of Cartagena

Lovely street in Cartagena

I am back in Xàtiva after spending a few days in Cartagena, a city located in Murcia.

Great place! I love it! Full of history, and also a major port on the sea.

I took lots of photos, but it will take a few more days to sort through them all. When those are ready, I will post an alert here, and put the pictures on the Pere’s Ramblings page.

In the meantime, take a look!

I took a short boat ride from the port
Roman Theater
Bouganvillas and a Jacaranda tree near the Punic wall ruins.

Got your interest? Stay tuned!

Zaragoza 2019

(Click on any photo for a high-resolution version.
Haga clic en cualquier foto para abrir una versión de alta resolución.)

Pilar Cathedral against the bright sky

Zaragoza sits on the banks of the Ebro River. It is an ancient city, and its name is an evolutionary corruption of the city’s name from Roman times: “Caesaragustus”.

I have been to Zaragoza numerous times. The first time was a search for a certain tower, other times to look at the Roman ruins, or the museum with information about the two sieges of Zaragoza from Spain’s War of Independence fought against Napoleon’s troops. One trip was specifically to watch a Verdi opera.

Zaragoza Delicias Train Stations- Old and New

In the photo, the old “Delicias” train station is dwarfed by the current station. The new station had already been built by the time I first visited Zaragoza, its cavernous interior and inadequate heating left passengers shivering indoors.

Aljaferia

The Aljaferia Palace ( قصر الجعفرية ) was originally built during the 11th century by Spain’s Muslim rulers. Through various wars it was repeatedly damaged and repaired/rebuilt. It is the site of various scenes in Verdi’s “Il Trovadore” opera. Today it serves as the home of Aragon’s legislature.

Entrance to the Paliacio de los Luna

On Calle Coso we find the Palacio de los Luna. Today it holds the halls of justice, and one might get a certain opinion about how justice is administrated by the statues. 🙂 Actually these represent Hercules and Gerion from Greek mythology.

Catedral del Salvadore de Zaragoza

One of two cathedrals in the old quarter is “La Catedral del Salvador en su Epifanía de Zaragoza”. Wow, that’s a mouthful! The residents call it “La Seu” for short. (The same name given to the large “non-cathedral” in my town of Xàtiva.)

Tribute to Goya

The famous painter Francisco Goya’s life was tightly linked to Zaragoza. His dramatic paintings related to the fight against Napoleon are vivid images of the violence of war.

Stone Bridge

Originally built in the 15th century, this stone bridge spans the Ebro River.

Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar

The cathedral of “Our lady of the Pillar” sits on the bank of the Ebro River. The mythology regarding an appearance of the Virgin Mary and a wooden statue caused this site to be revered.

Calle de Alfonso I at twilight

The “Calle de Alfonso I” is a major shopping street in Zaragoza’s “old quarter”. It leads from the Calle del Coso to the plaza in front of the Pilar cathedral.

The plaza at twilight

The plaza in front of the cathedral is lined with restaurants and is a popular place to eat.

Catedral-Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar – Twilight

Day or night the Pilar Cathedral is a beautiful sight.