Nanyang Catchup

Wow! I have really gotten behind in my posting!
Time to play catchup! I’ve got to just do brief notes… a few pics, otherwise I’ll have to rename this site “SlowNotes”!

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We all like dumplings, yeah?
But who knew that dumplings, originally invented in Nanyang, were originally meant to improve health and were created by a master of traditional Chinese medicine!?
Famous ancient Chinese doctor
At a sort of temple/shrine devoted to traditional Chinese medicine. I which my brother Chris could have been here!
The complex includes both a drum and bell tower
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Monument to the liberation (I think 1948) of Nanyang by the PLA
There are a lot of fun building designs in China
And even regular buildings sometimes have a lovely flair!
This is said to be the location of the farmhouse of Zhuge Liang, one of the most celebrated figures in Chinese history. It was from that farmhouse that Liu Bei, one of the leaders of one of the contending groups during the “Three Kingdoms” period of Chinese history recruited Zhuge Liang.
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Before they invented paper, The Chinese often used bamboo strips to write documents. These giant representations of bamboo strips include many famous quotes of admiration for Zhuge Liang
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Musical fun in Nanyang

While wandering on my last day in Nanyang, I encountered a friendly group of musicians who were setting up to practice.

My request to photograph them led to them insisting I join in.
But I have no musical talent!
No problem they said, and this was the result.
(no part of the conversation was in English and most of the communication involved one of them saying something in Chinese, me insisting I don’t know any Chinese and couldn’t understand, then communication occurred through gestures and smiles.)

Taiyuan – Capital of Shanxi province (April 3rd)

After Datong we had another smooth ride on the Chinese high-speed rail network. Destination- Taiyuan, capital of Shanxi province.

Twin Pagodas
Taiyuan’s “Twin Pagodas”

There is a lot to see in Taiyuan, but unfortunately my time was short, so I really only was able to squeeze in a visit to the twin pagodas.
My friend Jim had even less time because he was flying to Nanjing in order to get back to his hometown of Tongling in time for work.

Lion statue
Lion statue
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stairway to heaven
Stairs to the top

The inside of one of the pair of pagodas was open and one could (theoretically!) climb a dark slick staircase up to the top of that pagoda.
From that location there is a view over the city.

I soon began to question my judgement and my decision to ascend. Fine for younger, more nimble bodies. But this slow, tired old man of 69 decided that about halfway up was plenty far enough!
Well, as is often the case going down can seem more dangerous than ascending!

Did I mention that the staircase was dark? That it was narrow? That the ancient stone stairs were slick?
The view of the pagodas from the ground was perfect!

Adjacent to the towers was a temple complex.

Datong- Day two: Yungang Grottoes and more!

Entrance to Yungang (“Cloud Ridge” Grottoes

Located16 km from Datong this remarkable concentration of Buddhist statues includes some 50,000 statues, some protected completely within about 50 caves. Initial work to create this artistic marvel began a bit more than 1500 years ago.

Ubicado a 16 km de Datong, esta notable concentración de estatuas budistas incluye unas 50,000 estatuas, algunas protegidas completamente dentro de aproximadamente 50 cuevas. El trabajo inicial para crear esta maravilla artística comenzó un poco más de 1500 años.

It is considered to be among the three most significant concentrations of Buddhist statues in China. (The other two are the Mogao Grottoes near Dunhuang in Gansu province [been there!], and Longmen grottoes near Luoyang in Hennan province [yep, there too!])

Se considera que se encuentra entre las tres concentraciones más significativas de estatuas budistas en China. (¡Los otros dos son las grutas de Mogao cerca de Dunhuang en la provincia de Gansu [¡He estado allí!], Y “Grutas de la Puerta del Dragón” cerca de Luoyang en la provincia de Hennan [Sí, allí también!])

Datong “”Nine Dragon Screen”

After visiting the grottoes, it was time to head back to Datong to visit some other great things including a “Nine Dragon Screen”, a temple or two, and the old city wall.

Después de visitar las grutas, fue hora de regresar a Datong para visitar otras cosas importantes, incluida una “Pantalla Dragon”, un templo o dos, y la antigua muralla de la ciudad.

Datong city wall

Datong- An ancient town in Shanxi’s far north, almost at the border with Inner Mongolia (Day One)

A six-or-so hour train ride from Zhengzhou brought me to Datong.
The trip involved leaving Henan province behind and heading north through the loess covered land of Shanxi province.

Along the way there was ample evidence of the depth of China’s commitment to green energy. A very large number of buildings were topped by either photovoltaic solar panels and/or hot water heat panels.
We even passed entire hillsides covered with photovoltaic panels!

Solar hillside
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My friend Jim and I had second class seats, which are about as narrow as a tourist class seat on an airplane, but have much more leg room! And China’s high speed trains have an even smoother ride than the excellent “AVE” trains in Spain.

On the train to Datong (Second Class seats)
On the train to Datong

We saw some of the sites of and near Datong the afternoon of our arrival, and got a chance to see much more the next day!
Here is a small selection of snapshots from that first day:

The hotel (Pipa Old Inn) I had selected is within the old walled city and takes its name from the traditional upright stringed “Pipa” as displayed in the statue.

Hanging Temple

One of the famous sights of Datong is actually over an hour outside town. It is the “Hanging Temple”.
The first time I saw a photo of this, I honestly thought it was a mock up on the theme of “What would a Chinese Mesa Verde look like”.

Roof detail
A tricky climb
Jim at the edge
Jim on the edge!
Datong’s “Bell Tower” in the evening
Night view of street
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Kaifeng- Ancient capital city

I have not been able to keep up with these posts! Sorry! Some material will arrive out of order.

March 31- Kaifeng. This city is famous for having become the capital of the Song dynasty as its border was pushed south.

There is a famous painting titled “Along the river duing the Qingming (festival)” in the form or an exceptionally long horizontal scroll.This is said to portray Kaifeng during the Song Dynasty. It is a wonderful work that encompasses rural scenes as well as life in the city itself.

Some of the scenes from the “Along the river…” painting are reproduced on a wall in a park.
The “Iron Pagoda” is a famous landmark if Kaifeng
Image of the detailed decoration of the Iron Pagoda

Zhengzhou- One of the 8 greatest ancient capitals of China

Lists, lists, lists…. China has had many historic capital cities over the many centuries, no millennia! of its existence. Lists of these capitals generally follow the format of: the 4 greatest ancient capitals… the 6, the 7, the 8…
In the near future I will be working on the sixth and final installment of my “Capital cities of China”. That set of videos mostly focused on the capitals of provinces and autonomous regions. But the last installment will include an overview of the 8 most important ancient capital cities of China. Included in that list is Zhengzhou due to it’s role during the Shang dynasty (roughly 3,600 to 3,000 years ago!)
Among the relics from that period are the earthen remains of the city walls of “Xiao” (as Zhengzhou was known at the time).

Remains of Shang Dynasty city walls in Zhengzhou

Tongling (Jim’s Hometown)

Heading north from Hangzhou by high speed rail, we got to Jim’s hometown. A nice meal at the home where he lives with his parents,

With Jim’s family

The next morning, a good friend of Jim’s drove to the car-ferry that communicates to Laozhouxiang – a large island in the middle of the Yangtze. The plan? A picnic in a park area at the southern tip of the island!

Vehicles and pedestrians getting ready to disembark as soon as the ferry gets to the island
Creative way to pull the three wheeler up the hill. Necessity is indeed the mother of invention!
This was no half-hearted picnic!
Wheat field with tree line in the background

As you get to the edge of the park you can look across the Yangtze to a heavy industrial site on the other bank of the river

Industry making a mess of the air!

Meanwhile an endless stream of large barges used the river as their superhighway

Barges on the Yangtze

After eating, I broke out a deck of Spanish playing cards. Jim and his friend had fun learning to play ‘Escoba’.

Then, time to cross the river again. We had a bit of extra time, so we explored their municipal park a bit

Hangzhou- Day Three (Deshou Palace, etc)

An important reason for my visit to Hangzhou was to visit a recently restored historical site dating to the Southern Song Dynasty: Deshou Palace.

But that attraction did not open until 9:30, so first we casually ambled around a lovely nearby neighborhood.

Drum Tower

Deshou Palace was an absolutely wonderful site. The building was a reconstruction carfully designed to match the original appearance. It was paced full of artifacts as well as artwork related to the history and culture if the era. Various panels provided text that gave historical background .

An interesting modern twist was a huge interactive video display with a seemingly random collection if Chinese written characters that floated downwards. If you touched a character, it triggered the screen to display a relevant poem!

Deshou Palace

Historically this palace had been a sort if retirement quarters for the emperor. It had included extensive gardens of which only a small section has yet been restored .

A beautiful place! I could easily have spent a whole day there. It was a shame that our train tickets forced us onward to Tongling, where Jim wanted to show me his hometown!

My travels: Photos and stories